* jeweler’s saw

Posted on March 1st, 2005 by maitreya. Filed under Jewelry.


When I was in NYC the other day, I was in the neighborhood of Pearl, and it’s tractor beam pulled me in. I am now the owner of a jeweler’s saw, desire for which is thanks to many episodes of Crafters Coast to Coast. They didn’t have any silver to saw, so I got a piece of stainless steel or aluminum or something that was being sold for miniatures. Within 5 minutes of taking the thing out of the package, I’d already broken a blade. Now, the blades come in 12 packs, so I think this is not an altogether rare occurance. I could sort of tell I was stressing it too much, but I’m not sure if it was the material or the technique or what. Anyone know any good instructional sites? And I want to buy some silver anyway, so cheap silver supply sites would be good too.



6 Responses to “jeweler’s saw”

  1. Karen Says:

    I probably use the whole pack every time I use the saw. It’s pretty much how you hold it, slanted i think.
    Rio grande has a great catalog. Fusionbeads.com has a lot but a bit pricey.

  2. Vicki Says:

    I don’t have any advice but I think the same thing when i watch crafter’s coast to coast.

    “if only i had a saw like that and a neat-o vice clamp attached to my work bench…”

  3. Katy. Says:

    Although sometimes its inevitable, especially when you’re cutting delicate stuff, the saw blade isn’t supposed to break all that often. Its usually a factor of the blade not being taut enough (its supposed to make a high ping noise if you pluck it), or of forcing the blade at an odd angle through the metal. Your blade should be perpendicular to the metal at all times. The teeth should be pointing downward, so you only apply enough pressure to keep the blade in contact with the metal and let the gravity/teeth do the work on the downstroke. Even though it may feel wrong, its actually easier to cut the less pressure you use. :)

    Ganoksin (http://www.ganoksin.com) is an awesome resource for articles and forums on metalsmithing and jewelry-making.. You may learn TOO much there. :)

  4. Mere Says:

    Also try waxing the blade (for lubrication) with bur-life or just plain old candle wax. Also, the size of the blade should match the gauge of the metal…so smaller blades (w/ smaller teeth) should be used with thinner metal and vice versa. I hope that is helpful! Neat site!
    mere

  5. Pam Says:

    Wax is good to save the blade… slow and easy and don’t push it, just saw and let the teeth do the work. And yes, you are bound to break a few before you “get it”. And even after - they are thin and flimsy after all.

    Here is a good link:
    http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/piercingsaw.html

    Here is a neat demo:
    http://www.sunshinestudio.com/Bgorman.html

    When you are ready to solder and tumble your pieces, here are some great notes:
    http://www.itsmystore.com/cgi-bin/itsmy/go.exe?page=20&domain=11&webdir=windermere

    Have fun!

    :) Pam

  6. Barb Says:

    Ok, there are a few things to consiser, 1 your stress level, slow down. Make certain you put the blade in properly, is it in there tightley and in the correct direction? Use the whole blade when you cut from top to the botton, I notice you get more done when you slow down.
    I recently did my first piece in aluminum and my blades broke and also got dull, but i think it can be avoided using bees wax

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